Spain"s Aragon region isn"t exactly famous for its forests—it"s more "sun and scrub" than "shade and shuffle." And yet, climb the slopes of Moncayo and you"ll walk straight into a twist ending: a dense, whispering beech forest. The mountain is a climate roller coaster. At the bottom? Mediterranean shrubs. Midway up? Oaks and pines. Push further? Suddenly you"re in Peña Roya, a beech wonderland that seems to say, "Surprise, leaf it to me!"